On another tourist’s recommendation, I travelled north-east to the Buddhist caves cut into the side of a mountain. Some were elaborate, others simple, but all had a musty smell.
I preferred the Ellora site, but not because of the decorated chambers. A trail led above the caves to the top of the waterfall where pools of clear water cascaded down, until the liquid spilt over the cliff. Beside the pools were simple caves that appeared to have been tiny houses of the carvers who once created the art work below.