The morning after my arrival in Churchill, I ventured on foot, with layers of clothing from head to toe. It was slightly “warmer” only -30 degrees. As I plodded towards Hudson Bay, a block away, a grater passed, smoothing the icy street. One other pedestrian hiked in the opposite direction in half the gear I was wearing.

I was desperate to spy that vast bay I’d heard so much about from Canadian history and the department store that once bore its name. I was also relieved the polar bears were gone because I wouldn’t have dared to walk otherwise. Last night’s driver had informed me that while polar bears may not bother you, young males and mothers with cubs would be another matter.
