I walked a circuit of Churchill. That meant I traipsed only nine blocks in one direction because the town was that small. It was safe because the polar bears had deserted the town two days earlier with the cold snap.
Because of the town’s size and isolation, locals left their cars running when they nicked into the supermarket. I was told they didn’t bother to lock the doors of their houses either.
I turned back on the last street to walk along Kelsey Boulevard where a snow plough flung white powder into the air like a snow storm. Most places were closed after the tourist season ended but at least Gypsy’s was open. I may have missed the bears, but I didn’t have to miss my first taste of Arctic char.
I’d heard about this northern fish for years and found it on the menu along with caribou which I have yet to try. It was a little fishy for me, but that didn’t stop me finishing the lot.