Photo courtesy: Rasheed Hamis — Wikimedia Commons
Dhows were often cruising the sparkling waters off Dar es Salaam’s coast for fishing or transport to nearby islands.
My dhow journey started after I bussed from Mombasa to Kikoni near Kenya’s northern border with Somalia. Stepping into a dhow, we arced around protected waters until the peaceful sojourn ended at Lamu Island’s wharf.
Most of the next month was heaven: trailing down narrow sandy paths between stone buildings; hiking the lonely beach; diving into pristine water. But that’s come to an end. Lamu’s once isolated locational advantage is now a disadvantage — too close to Somalia for comfort.