The Seongpanak Trail was nearly ten kilometres to the top of South Korea’s highest mountain, Mt Hallasan. On the mountain’s peak was Baengnokdam crater lake which was created by volcanic activity. Around the mountain were 368 large oreums (parasitic cones) — the largest number anywhere in the world.

I spent a long time at Halla Eco-Forest so arrived too late to make the climb all the way up, but at least hiked far enough into the forest to experience the stillness. In spite of signs warning of wild boars, I didn’t spot any. Nor did I see an oreum. With eight days ahead of me on Jeju Island, I decided to return to this national park through another entrance at a later date. I hadn’t seen enough.