There were two trails — one to Seongsan Ilchulbong Peak summit that I had already climbed with a $5 entrance fee, and a free trail. I headed to the latter.
Around the bend from the peak the trail revealed a different part of the tuff cone. The northern side rose like a rippled wall from the sea. Along the cliffs that curved around the black sandy beach, layers of hardened volcanic ash lay exposed.
I descended to the beach where Haenyeo divers would perform later in the day, and luscious fresh seafood was for sale. Hardened lava rock covered part of the beach and that reminded me that the whole of Jeju Island was formed from volcanic activity nearly two million years ago.