Jeju Island’s Sanbangsan Mountain was a large lava dome formed about 800 000 years ago that rose 395 metres above sea level. I hoped to climb this mountain, but the steps only went up 150 metres to the Sanbangulsa Grotto.

I reached the grotto to the sound of chanting. Inside water dripped from rocks. Legend claimed that the water was the tears of Sanbangdeok who turned into a goddess after suffering in the human world.

I would have liked to have stayed longer. The view of the sea in the distance and the chanting was relaxing, but the overpowering smell of incense was something I needed to avoid.