On Jeju Island’s west coast I discovered the best beach I’d seen since arriving on the island. Unfortunately, it was the coldest day since my arrival in South Korea. Most of the days had been in the low twenties, but that day the temperature dropped to a cool six degrees — not swimming weather.

I walked for a time over the fine white sand then a path that ran above the beach. Jeju’s famous winds that I hadn’t experienced during my nine days on the island sailed in at full force from the South China Sea and I was glad I had a hoodie.

But I was yearning for a little more time as I’d done many times before when I was near the end of my time on a trip. I was leaving Jeju Island the following morning, flying to Busan where I’d catch a flight to Taipei on the next leg of my four months journey.