Delhi Hai Meri Yaar

Delhi Street — Photo courtesy: John Hill — Wikimedia Commons

Or so the A.R. Rahman song goes but I don’t remember the city being my friend. I guess the part of town I stayed in, cheap and crowded, didn’t help; very like the video clip below. Continue reading Delhi Hai Meri Yaar

Sarnath – a quiet corner of India

Photo courtesy: Yusuke Kawasaki — Wikimedia Commons

After the chaos of Varanasi, a rickshaw ride to Sarnath was tonic for the soul. This was where, after attaining enlightenment, Lord Buddha preached his first sermon. Continue reading Sarnath – a quiet corner of India

Varanasi – Ghats, Chats and Rats

Photo courtesy: Patrick Barry — Wikimedia Commons

Disjointed pictures invade my head long after I left Varanasi. Not images of the famous ghats where Hindus cremate their dead or dip into the beloved Ganga. What I remember are street scenes where famous Benares saris festooned store fronts and being hemmed in on all sides by crowds milling their way to and from the ghats. Continue reading Varanasi – Ghats, Chats and Rats

Kashmir’s Shalimar Gardens – a piece of heaven before the storm

Photo courtesy: Hans Nelisse — Wikimedia Commons

Because I wasn’t a climber, I kept my distance from the mountains. Instead, I hired a shikara to travel past water lilies floating on Dal Lake to the Shalimar Gardens. Continue reading Kashmir’s Shalimar Gardens – a piece of heaven before the storm

Everyone loves a houseboat in Kashmir

Photo courtesy: Nicor — Wikimedia Commons

Staying on a houseboat was like living in a small house after squeezing into hotel rooms. The water lapped on all sides and the soft sound of paddlers cruising past was a melody that slowed heart beats. Continue reading Everyone loves a houseboat in Kashmir

To the heights of Kashmir

I left the Sikh driver after his mysterious race, relieved to be on stable ground.

On the one hand, Srinagar was disappointing. The town had the all too familiar neglected appearance, and the food was different from anywhere else I’d been in India. Continue reading To the heights of Kashmir

Introduction to the luxuries of Indian toilets (or not) on the way to Kashmir

Photo courtesy: Owais Khursheed — Wikimedia Commons

The crazy driving wasn’t the only experience of the never to be forgotten bus ride. The driver pulled up in a forgotten town (possibly Banihal) where locals hovered near the bus exit, desperate for a sale. All I wanted was a bathroom. Continue reading Introduction to the luxuries of Indian toilets (or not) on the way to Kashmir

My travel diary

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