An yong hi hasayo

As I reflect on my three weeks in South Korea, I have to thank my friend Seungju who patiently helped me learn some basic Korean before my trip. It made a huge difference — not so much in Seoul — but everywhere else.

Busan’s Dongbaek Park

I climbed to the highest point in Dongbaek Park expecting a view of the East Sea from this southern part of Busan, but dense forest gave this section an enclosed feeling. Descending the steps on the southern end of the peninsula, the sea stretched out with a 180 degree view.

Gyemyeongam Hermitage

Gyemyeongam Hermitage entrance stood across from Cheongyeonam Hermitage. I discovered after a while that the 100 metre sign wasn’t accurate, but I persisted, climbing the 500 steps until I reached the site.

Cheongyeonam Hermitage

I took the road deeper into the forest away from Beomeosa Temple where a sign pointed to three different hermitages. If I found Beomeosa Temple quiet, this route was dead silent. A handful of faithful knelt before shrines. A few people walked the grounds, but otherwise there was no one.

Beomeosa Temple grounds

After roaming the temple buildings, I stumbled upon a cafeteria where free vegetarian food was offered to all visitors. Then after lunch explored the forest surrounding the temple site. Outside was a 560 year old ginkgo tree planted by a Buddhist monk after the Japanese invaded Joseon in 1592. The tree didn’t bare any nuts so 300 years ago a male ginkgo tree was planted not far away. The tree then produced thirty large sacks of nuts annually.

Beomeosa Temple

Three gates flanked the entrance to Beomeosa Temple. The first, Jogyemun Gate was built in the 1700s with four stone pillars supporting the roof. The third gate, the Burimum Gate was the most interesting and had been reconstructed less that ten years ago.

First steps in Busan

I arrived by train from Daegu and walked to my hotel in a lively part of town — Texas Street. About 200 metres on was a market where fish swam in tanks, vegetables and fruit were on display and snack foods tempted.