First glimpse of a tamil nadu island

I arrived in Rameswaram by train on India’s south-east coast over a clanking bridge that connected the island to the rest of Tamil Nadu. In those days, there was only the railway bridge to the island from the mainland, so with no cars, everyone walked or biked along the island’s main sandy street.

my first encounter with india

My Air India flight arrived from Singapore at something like two in the morning. Like a lost lamb, I edged my way through the chaos of coolies and taxi drivers badgering for business. After I slunk into the back of a wonky taxi seat, the driver whizzed through the darkened Chennai streets (Madras back then). 

Journey into the past

When I first set foot in Chennai decades ago, I stayed near Egmore Station. On my recent return, I decided to venture back to see if there was anything I recognized from all those years ago.

Around Chennai

Chennai had stately old buildings but unfortunately, many stood in stained neglect. I idled on busy corners to uncover their past glory while crowds dodged by .

Chennai’s Fort St George

I sat in the women’s section of a train that rattled to Fort St George. This was the only place where I enjoyed a real footpath that skirted the circumference of the fort. There were no crumpled sections or potholes.

People of Chennai

Even though Chennai’s traffic was daunting and it was difficult to walk on a level footpath if there was one at all, I met a number of friendly people.

Chennai alleyway street food

After catching ae bus, then another from Mamallapurum to southern Chennai, I idled in alleyways; anything to avoid the roar of traffic on the main road.

Mamallapuram visit

I wandered for several hours through the main heritage site. It was a Friday and filled with more local adventurers than foreigners.

Puducherry

I bussed south from Chennai and passed walled plots of coconut plantations, pine trees, an occasional rice paddy field and gained a taste of the old India. But resorts were encroaching on this farmland to the point where some farmers had signs plastered on boundary walls, “This property isn’t for sale.”

Chennai gems

While I was in the midst of endless traffic and tooting horns I came across two gems in Chennai’s back streets.