First stop in Taroko National Park

Just north of Hualien on Taiwan’s east coast was a mountainous region with fast flowing rivers, waterfalls, steep gorges and lush forests.

Through Mt Maokong’s dense forest

Half way along the Camphor Tree Trail by Ejiaoge Mountain, near the outer limits of Taipei City, a sign pointed towards YingHe Cave. I veered on to that trail and down countless steps and over a rocky path, lured by a cave.

High above Taipei City

On the edge of Taipei City I sailed up Maokong Mountain on the Maokong Gondola. As soon as I got to the top I heard a passenger in the cabin before mine go straight to the ticket counter and ask for a ticket to head back down again. I shook my head. Were they only interested in the ride? There was an entire mountain to explore.

An en-chanting trail

One hundred metres from Chunwangsa Temple within Hallasan National Park was Seokgulam Trail leading to a hermitage. Situated in the Aheumanhopgol Valley, this was only a 1.5 kilometre hike one way, but it was steep and the steps were often amongst tree roots.

My final search for an oreum

I had driven almost full circle around Jeju Island and arrived near the western half of Hallasan National Park. I was ready to find an oreum that had so far evaded me within the park’s eastern side.

One of the three god’s mountains

I headed to Mara Provincial Marine Park to circuit the coastline. This was only a three kilometre trail running along the high cliffs above the East China Sea. I hoped for a better view of its highest point.

Cheonjiyeon Falls

Jeju’s Seogwipo had a second waterfall that may not have been as dramatic as Jeongbank Falls, but the setting was more picturesque. High cliffs enclosed the valley where lush vegetation fringed the clear waters from Sombancheon River.

In search of an oreum

I started along this fifteen kilometre trail in Jeju’s Saryeoni Forest, but planned to hike only five kilometres into the forest to reach Mulchat Oreum. This volcanic parasitic cone was where Hwaguho Lake, a crater lake was located on its flat summit.

Hallasan National Park

The Seongpanak Trail was nearly ten kilometres to the top of South Korea’s highest mountain, Mt Hallasan. On the mountain’s peak was Baengnokdam crater lake which was created by volcanic activity. Around the mountain were 368 large oreums (parasitic cones) — the largest number anywhere in the world.

Seokguram Grotto

Seokguram Grotto was a small site and different from others I’d visited. The attraction was an 8^thcentury granite Buddha housed in the side of the cliff that was enclosed within a building. This large Buddha was carved during the Silla dynasty.