I’d tried contacting a few accommodation sites around Fleur de Lys without success. No one responded to emails so I was ready to give up on this out of the way town. But when I arrived at the turn off, it was still early in the day, so I decided to drive the seventy or so kilometres to see the Inuit site I’d heard about. Continue reading Inuit past in Fleur de Lys
The Beothuk were the original inhabitants of Newfoundland and I luckily stumbled upon the Beothuk Interpretive Centre in Boyd’s Cove. There was an interesting museum but what hit home was the spirit garden for the extinct people. Like other visitors before me, I tied an offering on the tree in their memory. Continue reading Boyd’s Cove’s Beothuk past
Musgrave Harbour turned out to be a nice surprise. Not only did I stay in a cute two-bedroom cabin where I had a washing machine, but there was a great beach with lots to explore and a good restaurant right against the sea. Continue reading Carmanville Wetlands
There was only one place I lost that safe feeling the entire Newfoundland trip. I was headed to Musgrave Harbour but stopped off for a beach hike first in Dead Man’s Provincial Park. Continue reading Dead Man’s Provincial Park
I drove to the cape the day before I left Bonavista. There was a lighthouse to explore and a view of the open sea with fresh air gushing in off the Atlantic. A busload of tourists braced the wind before they scurried into one of the other buildings on the point.
On the drive back, I took a short hike to the Dungeon, a natural arch formation, my last Bonavista stop off.
I arrived in Elliston, the puffin capital. After the long distance view of birds at Bay Bulls, I was surprised at how close I was to these puffins.
I sat on a cliff where across on a stack, breeding pairs were busy around their burrows. I’m guessing the ones on the cliff where I sat were those without partners. They were within a metre of where I sat perfectly still watching their antics. Continue reading Puffins, puffins and more puffins
Bonavista was a cute seaside town with a duck pond trail to skirt and a friendly restaurant where I learned how islanders knew how to tell who was from Newfoundland and who was a tourist. We tourists locked our cars, islanders never bothered. Continue reading Newfoundland’s Bonavista
From the south of Newfoundland’s peninsular, I drove north to Harbour Grace, a small town with a five hundred year history. However, I was interested in its more recent history connected to Amelia Earhart. Continue reading Earhart’s Harbour Grace
I started to realise, this island, The Rock, as Newfoundland was often called, was bird haven. I left St John’s and drove south, to Cape St Mary’s which was another bird breeding reserve.
Following the cliff trail, murre, cormorant, guillemot and gannet nesting sites dotted the cliffs, each with their own breeding area. Continue reading Newfoundland’s Cape St Mary’s Ecological Reserve
I drove south from Newfoundland’s capital for a whale watching tour. Whale watching is often a gamble and on this day, while we saw several pods, it was disappointing. Still, being on the ocean was exhilarating and I was introduced to that distinct Newfoundland accent. Continue reading From Bulls Bay to Gull Island