Tag Archives: PEI

The best and worst of the Maritime Provinces

Driving was relaxing because there wasn’t half the traffic on Canada’s east coast as the west coast. Plus, I got to admire the millions of lupins that showered their purple, pink, and white flowers by the side of nearly every road. (Featured image: by Masons Beach Road, Lunenburg). BUT the potholes on secondary and some major highways! Driving to Hopewell Rocks, half the road had washed away in several stretches. On one highway there were reminders that moose crossed the road and between watching for moose and dodging yet another pothole, this was a challenge. It appeared that the road crews couldn’t keep up with the amount of damage from the harsh winters.

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PEI’s Rustico

East of Cavendish was the fishing village of Rustico. It was the perfect place for a seafood lunch with views of Rustico Harbour. Even though it was well past midday, fog rolled in and for a time, the opposite shoreline remained obscure. (Featured photo: Fisherman’s Statue in the fog)

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Lennox Island

Although the road was sealed, it was a convoluted route to this remote corner of Prince Edward Island. Like Cabot Beach the island was situated on Malpeque Bay and connected to PEI by a bridge. In1878 the Aboriginal Protection Society purchased the island from landlords, and it became the seat of the Mi’kmaq Confederacy of PEI.

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The last on Lucy Maud Montgomery

I drove towards Cabot Beach Provincial Park and after a hike, planned to stop at Thunder Cove. I needed to arrive early as after hiking in the park, it was important to arrive by midday when it was low tide to be able to walk along the shoreline to see Tea Cup Rock. Within ten kilometres of the Provincial Park, the road morphed into a muddy quagmire. It made no sense to attempt the precarious road especially as there were no other cars going the same route. On another road into the park, a second mushy road forced me to give up my dream of hiking by Malpeque Bay. This was a remote corner of the Prince Edward Island. There hadn’t even been one service station along the route or many other cars.

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Even today, Prince Edward Island’s Cavendish is a small community mostly made up of motels and cottages that are rented to tourists who come to take the Anne of Green Gables journey. There’s one general store, restaurants and a lot of tourist shops along Cavendish Road. Just off this road is a cluster of historical buildings in Avonlea.

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Green Gables Heritage Place

This site in PEI’s Cavendish was dedicated to Lucy Maud Montgomery, the author of Anne of Green Gables, one of Canada’s most famous authors. In 1911 before Lucy turned two, her mother died, and she lived with her maternal grandparents in Cavendish where she grew up. She completed a teaching degree in Charlottetown and later a literature course at Dalhousie University in Halifax while teaching. When her grandfather died, she gave up teaching and returned to Cavendish to care for her grandmother and help her run the post office.

(Featured photo: Anne of Green Gables in different languages)

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By the wide Summerside Harbour was the six-and-a-half-kilometre Bay Walk that passed the marina and several tourist shops around Spinnakers’ Landing. Beyond the shops a search and rescue vessel was moored. 

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PEI’s Confederation Trail

When railways were abandoned on Prince Edward Island in 1989, Islanders gravitated to the idea of using the routes for hiking and cycling. The main route extended from Elmira in the east to Tignish in the west—a distance of nearly three hundred kilometres. As well, branch trails extended out to other areas such as Charlottetown, Souris, and Montague adding over a hundred kilometres to the trail.

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Canoe Cove

A short distance south of Charlottetown was Canoe Cove. Mi’kmaq once brought British soldiers ashore by canoe, hence its name. Later the region had been settled by Scottish newcomers in the 1700s who farmed and fished. But that was not what drew me to this quiet location. It was the cliffs.

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Prince Edward Island National Park

This national park on the northern side of the island was established in 1937 to protect the beaches and sand dunes as well as the region’s wetlands and marshes. The twenty-seven square kilometre park faced the Gulf of St Lawrence and consisted of mostly access to its many sandy beaches. But there were some trails away from the dunes.

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