The Yellow Sea island of Hong-do

My reason for visiting Mokpo was its closeness to Hong-do Island. The ferry left Yeongsan River Estuary heading west on a two-and-a-half-hour journey. Dadohaehaesang was South Korea’s largest national park. Including land and sea, it’s area was over 2,000 square kilometres. I planned to take the boat tour around the island, but by the time the ferry docked at Hong-do Island pier, I felt squeamish. Not having had a substantial breakfast the seasick feeling persisted. I kept debating the boat tour, which was the reason I’d come to the island, but when another hiker I met on the Power Station Circuit told me it was a two-and-a-half-hour tour, I knew my stomach couldn’t last the distance. 

Power Station Circuit, Hong-do Island

Climbing the steps leading towards the island’s power plant that arched along the eastern side of the island I realized I had to abandon the boat tour. By rocky outcrops on a warm morning, there were spectacular views in spite of the fog. I turned towards the mountain looming over the tiny port town and set off to tackle Dadohaehaesang National Park’s highest mountain along Gitdaebong Trail. From the lower steps within the national park, the climb didn’t appear daunting, but that was deceiving because much of the climb lay hidden within the forest. I encountered only about twelve hikers during the climb, so it was quiet except for the chatter of birds.

View from the summit of Gitdaebong Trail

The first 900 metres was nothing but steps climbing higher and higher, and the view lay hidden by dense forest. At a cairn, I set one fallen stone back in place. Although this was only a two-kilometre trail, constant climbing made it challenging, but eventually there was a reward at the top—a panoramic view from three sides. If it hadn’t been so foggy, the view would have been even better. 

At the summit of Gitdaebong Trail with the friendly couple I later had lunch with

Descending was a breeze and hardly took any time, but when I reached the small town, most of the restaurants had closed as soon as the boat tour began. Luckily, one lady was still operating her restaurant so a couple I had met on the trail and I managed to satisfy our hunger with Korean pancakes and panchan. The couple offered me Makgeolli that is drunk from bronzeware bowls and we did our best to communicate with my limited Korean and their limited English.