Melbourne’s St Kilda

Skirting part of Port Phillip Bay was a walkway through West St Kilda where once Aboriginal Yalukit-William women made their spring journey to Port Nepean from the Yarra River. (featured image) At that time, St Kilda was known as Euroe Yroke.

St Kilda Pier kiosk

Nearby, was St Kilda Pier. Back in 1904, the kiosk had originally been constructed as a pavilion. In 2003 the building was destroyed by fire, but because it was such a popular landmark, it was rebuilt using the original drawings.

Luna Park, St Kilda

Not far away was Luna Park that first opened in 1912 and is the oldest theme park in Australia. Unlike Sydney’s Luna Park that opened in 1935, Melbourne’s theme park still operates. Sydney’s closed in 1979 after seven people died from an amusement park fire. I ambled past Melbourne’s open-mouthed entrance too early in the day for the gates to be opened for the joy rides within, including the largest carousel in the southern hemisphere. Tourists idled near the entrance taking photos while I crossed the street to Palais Theatre.

Palais Theatre, St Kilda

There were originally four Palais Theatres in St Kilda. Two were demolished and the third burnt down. The remaining Palais Theatre opened in 1926 with a seating capacity of nearly 3 000 seats. The building was designed by H.E. White who was responsible for over 130 other cinema designs in Australia. Originally, the cinema was packed until television arrived in the 1960s. With dwindling attendance, the Australian Elizabethan Theatre Trust began live performances. They first produced an opera, then international stars such as the Bolshoi Ballet arrived, and since that time, the theatre still operates. A facelift was underway when I passed. Years earlier when I’d visited Melbourne, the building had been white. 

Acland Street residence

After this point, most tourists strolled along Acland Street. Crowds dawdled by shop fronts, peered into restaurants, or entered the many cake shops that enticed customers with their calorie-laden goods. The northern end of the street was quieter where stately houses stood amongst apartments. Trees shaded the walkway and few cars ventured along this section. Tucked between two busy roads, this street also had an art gallery.

Albert Park Lake

Away from Port Philip Bay was St Kilda’s walk/bikeway by Albert Park. I’ve lost count of the number of times I’d entered the park, but somehow the lake had alluded me. So, I set out determined to hike around St Kilda’s lake. Originally, the site had been a swamp where the Wurundjeri Woi Wurrung peoples once held their corroborees before Europeans invaded. In the 1800s it was used for military training maneuvers, grazing and hunting. By the late 1800s, the lagoons were excavated to form the lake, and fresh water from the Yarra River was connected. 

Black swan on Albert Park Lake

The track that circuited the lake was just under five kilometres. The variety of birds was plentiful. Australian pied cormorants, black swans, Eurasian coots, Pacific black ducks, masked lapwing, dusky moorhens, chestnut teals and an egret were the ones I spotted. Nearly one hundred different birds had been recorded by other Albert Park Lake hikers.

Along the eastern bank of the lake, the groan of traffic from St Kilda Road never stopped but the setting was relaxing and in the distance, the taller city buildings rose against a blue sky. The only time to avoid the lake was during Melbourne’s Grande Prix because of the roar of engines that probably scared the birds away too.